Walking between worlds - A Young Chinese Indonesian straddles modernity and tradition
Dikemaskini :
19 Februari 2018
A street scene in Glodok. Glodok in West Jakarta is the city's 'Chinatown'. The area traces its origins to November 1740, when the Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) turned it into a ghetto for the Chinese after the Batavia Massacre where at least 10,000 were killed. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
The hustle and bustle of the Glodok market. Once a thriving trading area, today Glodok is a series of densely packed streets with a chaotic market at its centre. The Chinese enclave was scarred during the 1998 Jakarta riots when ethnic Chinese were targeted. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
A Muslim lady riding pillion carries Chinese New Year decorations at a crossroads in Glodok. While the demographics of Glodok have changed rapidly, nevertheless, many ethnic Chinese have stayed on. As Chinese New Year approaches, a festive mood pervades, with the hustle and bustle of street traders selling decorations. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
Incense sticks spew smoke at the Vihara Temple in Glodok. Preparations for the New Year are underway at the temple, where devotees pray for prosperity and good health. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Arifin Kurniawan, also known as Ah Fin, at the Vihara temple. You can see why he's a fashion model - the young man has an arresting presence. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
Arifin posing with his lion head at the back of Vihara, where he rehearses lion dancing. "Lion dancing teaches you how to move, how to take care of your body, how to work in a team. Its a tradition that I'm proud to be part of." Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
A tiny convenience store Ariffin's family runs out of their house. His father, Ah Kim, elaborates: "I used to sell fried chicken... but business was poor. At least if I sell goods from here, I can save on rent." Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
Arifin and his father in their living room. At only 70 square metre, the house can barely fit the team and Arifin's family. Ah Kim folds up a mattress on the floor to accommodate us. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
A miniature garden at the nearby Vihara temple. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Arifin leads prayers at the Fat Cu Kung shrine in Glodok. Arifin also conducts ritual blessings in his role as a spirit medium. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
The founder and spiritual figure of the Fat Cu Kung Shrine, Tan Tek Shu Sian. At night, the small shrine hidden in an alleyway is bathed in an eerie red light. Countless deities line the walls. Chanting fills the air. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
Arifin burns a paper talisman to prepare for his possession. "Some nights, I can be possessed by four or even five spirits. To prepare, I must keep myself pure for at least three days: a vegetarian diet, no impure thoughts and a lot of meditation. I don't become a god; that would be arrogant. I'm just a vessel." Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018
In a gruesome ritual, Arifin pierces his cheeks with a needle. Without flinching, he then summons the spirits. The first spirit that enters Ariffin is Guan Gong. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Arifin conducts a purification ritual, bathing an adherent in flower water. All sorts of people come for the blessing: the sick, the unlucky, those who are looking for more business opportunities, even a few who are looking to ask after those who have gone to the grave. It's a chance to start anew, to be cleansed. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Arifin often sits at the Vihara temple; the sacred space is a place of contemplation. Arifin has his own thoughts on walking between worlds. "I can be Chinese and Muslim, modern and traditional, a model at Instagramed fashion shows and a spirit medium at shrines. These things can all coexist in harmony. After all, Indonesia is the land of hundreds of races and religions; just look at myself and my family." Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Chinese New Year hampers galore at the Glodok market. The ostentatious display of Chinese culture today is a far cry from 1998, when Chinese Indonesians stopped celebrating for a time to avoid attention. However, with a rising wave of conservatism, things may change. Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
Arifin holdings his hands in prayer at the Vihara temple. Asked what his prayers are, or if he has any wishes for the country, he answers unhesitatingly: "The Indonesia I know and grew up with, that I believe in, it's a place where we keep moving forwards together. It doesn't matter if you're Christian or Muslim or Chinese or Javanese, this is Indonesia." Ceritalah pic by Muhammad Fadli, February 9, 2018.
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